Bringing HIStory to Fredericksburg on Juneteenth
A few miles up I-95, Richmond’s own Chef Charles is making bold moves as Executive Chef at Port Oysteria & Brewery—a sleek, modern spot in Fredericksburg known for its in-house craft beers and ever-evolving food scene.
Though he’s been leading the menu there for several months, this Juneteenth was different. When the restaurant’s owners offered him the creative freedom to curate something special, Chef Charles took the opportunity to do what he does best: tell a story through food. A Black story. A Southern story. One that stretches across generations and is best understood in bites.
To backdrop the experience, Control the Room set the tone with a stunning visual installation. And under the Strawberry Full Moon, the evening felt like a full-circle celebration—of freedom, culture, memory, and flavor.
We began with the Crab Gumbo, a deep, dark roux layered with fresh herbs and vegetables—"comfortably spiced" and comfort-food rich. We knew better than to share, so we each got our own bowl.
Though tempted by the appetizers (which included Fries by the Bayou and The Runaways- a smörgåsbord of crab stuffed hush puppies, red cabbage créme, dark cherry red wine redux, diced pineapple, candied bacon dust, charred ramp oil, and microgreen garnish), we paused instead to explore Port’s house-brewed beers before diving into the entrees. From the Juneteenth menu, we shared the Delta Breeze: a whole citrus-marinated red snapper grilled to perfection, served with red beans and rice, charred ramps, and microgreens.
But we couldn’t leave without tasting one of Chef Charles' regular dishes too, and the Truffle Lobster Risotto didn’t disappoint. Butter-poached lobster, white truffle oil, basil, white wine, and shaved parmesan—rich, warm, and indulgent.
Dessert came with a story. The Erna Virginia, named after Chef Charles' mother, honors both her and the memory of a time when Black folks were denied even something as simple as vanilla ice cream. “Butter pecan was the next best thing,” he said, remembering her stories of growing up in Petersburg. His version came as a coconut rum bread pudding topped with buttered rum caramel, candied pecans, and shaved coconut—a sweet, textured reflection of a black food history through a black modern lens.
Chef Charles' Juneteenth menu wasn’t just food—it was an offering. An invitation to taste freedom, memory, and Black joy on a plate. If you’re in the area, pull up to Port Oysteria & Brewery before the end of June before this special ends.
